{"id":1556373,"date":"2025-10-17T11:57:08","date_gmt":"2025-10-17T10:57:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.67pallmall.com\/?p=1556373"},"modified":"2025-11-21T12:01:31","modified_gmt":"2025-11-21T12:01:31","slug":"under-the-surface-67-pall-mall-fine-wine-trends-report","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.67pallmall.com\/under-the-surface-67-pall-mall-fine-wine-trends-report\/","title":{"rendered":"UNDER THE SURFACE |\u00a067 Pall Mall London’s first Fine Wine Trends Report"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

This month saw the release of the London Club\u2019s first Fine Wine Trends Report, released to coincide with its 10th anniversary, and to chronicle the evolving tastes of Members over that time. It\u2019s fair to say that it threw up some interesting results\u2026<\/em><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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When exploring ways in which the Club should mark its tenth birthday in December this year, the London team pulled out all the stops. \u2018Go big or go home\u2019 was the original mantra of founder Grant Ashton, after all \u2013 and, with events from the likes of Krug, Opus One, Ch\u00e2teaux Rayas, Musar, Rauzan-S\u00e9gla and Canon peppering the autumn calendar, as well as a blowout Gala Dinner, it\u2019s an approach that the team has been well and truly embracing.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

But it was also felt that the Club should use its unique position to act as a barometer of the fine wine scene, turning inwards a little to take on board the habits, tastes and views of its Members over the last decade. The idea was to document how things have changed over the last decade, and consider the likely emerging trends over the next one \u2013 both for our own interest, but also as a benefit to the wider industry. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u2018In the next ten years, I would
expect to see the Burgundisation
of all wine regions and styles,
right across the world,\u2019<\/p>London Member<\/cite><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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The resulting London Fine Wine Trends Report was based on extensive sales data from the Club, looking at spending patterns over the last 10 years, along with views solicited from the entire London membership via an email survey, followed by further qualitative research in the form of round-table discussions, all amplified by the expertise, experience and perspective of the Club\u2019s core wine team. That data was then formed into a series of opinions, quotes and analysis around the most relevant topics. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

So what did we learn from the exercise? Well, for the most part, London Members\u2019 perspectives align closely with wider market sentiment, echoing concerns over en primeur fatigue, price inflation and the lionisation of \u2018trophy\u2019 wines \u2013 all factors driving the market\u2019s recent downturn \u2013 while revealing a desire for connection over collection. Nearly 60% of Members said that increased prices of fine wine meant they were moderating their purchases, while 44% said they were buying less wine to lay down. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Despite market headwinds and future uncertainties, however, passion for fine wine burns as bright as ever. The report reveals an overwhelming 85% of respondents expanding their wine repertoire over the last ten years, exploring offerings from regions such as South Africa, Sicily and England with growing enthusiasm. Many have gravitated toward elegant, lighter reds from the likes of Germany and Piedmont in pursuit of quality and value beyond the traditional Burgundy and Bordeaux paradigm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That said, Burgundy continues to dominate both sales and personal preference for most Members, with the elegance and sense of place offered by its wines translating into the growing popularity of wines from other regions that offer the same qualities. \u2018In the next ten years, I would expect to see the Burgundisation of all wine regions and styles, right across the world,\u2019 said one Member when asked to predict future trends. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Members were asked to name their favourite white grape variety<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

While Members are increasingly mindful of alcohol levels, with many gravitating towards wines below 14% ABV, they have not been significantly swayed towards low-alcohol alternatives, with the majority sceptical of the quality of such offerings and embracing a \u2018life is too short\u2019 philosophy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The report compared unit sales in the London Club by region for the first six months of the year in 2016 v 2025<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The issue of organic and biodynamic wines stimulated some heated debate. While London Members took notice of such credentials, there was a scepticism \u2013 even cynicism \u2013 as to how they are used. Many respondents indicated that whether a wine is organic or biodynamic has little to no influence on their purchasing decisions. Quality, producer reputation and personal taste were more important factors. That said, certifications such as organic or biodynamic were often viewed as a positive indicator of care and rigour in a producer\u2019s approach, and hence an encouraging sign. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Among other topics to gain traction, the reticence of the younger generation to engage with wine was earmarked as cause for concern, though climate change was by far the most commonly mentioned topic on this front. Nearly half of all Members referenced it when asked to identify future threats, commonly citing the potential impact on the signature style of classic regions such as Burgundy, Bordeaux and Barolo. Many respondents expressed concern that higher temperatures, extreme weather events, lack of water and altered growing seasons could result in a loss of typicity, along with inconsistent quality and changes of style via higher alcohol levels and overly ripe flavours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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London Members were asked to name the regions from where they expected to increase their wine buying over the coming decade<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The motivation to purchase wines from classic regions before such stylistic change sets in was about the only positive sentiment expressed with regard to the En Primeur process. Many Members expressed frustration with the rising costs of En Primeur (notably in Bordeaux), which it was felt had become inflated to the point where it no longer makes sense to buy wines on release, as mature wines can often be found on the secondary market for a similar price or cheaper. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rising prices across the wider market were also a concern, with many Members not only turning to alternative regions such as South Africa and Sicily, but also seeking out less heralded options within the renowned regions of Burgundy, Piedmont or Champagne (though it was felt this was more challenging in Bordeaux).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The St James’s Room was packed for the press and trade event held to launch the report<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u2018A lot of Members still want to drink Burgundy, but they ask for a less well-known producer or move down a bit in terms of the prestige of the appellation, from Meursault to Mercury or Puligny to St Aubin,\u2019 said Head of Wine Operations London, Federico Moccia. \u2018It\u2019s the same in Champagne \u2013 everyone\u2019s always looking for the new Ulysse Collin or Selosse, before it goes mainstream and becomes super expensive.\u2019 Such an approach brought both risk and reward, however. \u2018There\u2019s a danger that fine wine is becoming too much about the rarest, the finest, the most expensive… We shouldn\u2019t forget, wine is meant to be drunk \u2013 yet we talk about wines that we don\u2019t drink, and we drink wines that we don\u2019t talk about.\u2019 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Federico Moccia and Kathrine Larsen-Robert MS expand on the findings of the report to a trade audience<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Kathrine Larsen-Robert MS, 67 Pall Mall\u2019s Head of Wine Europe, said of the exercise: \u2018Contributing to this report has been enlightening. Most striking is the marked shift toward wines from a more diverse array of regions over the past decade, driven perhaps by an appetite for discovery and exceptional value. Members are increasingly embracing wines from emerging regions and lesser-known varietals.\u2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A trade-focused event was also held at the London Club to discuss some of the findings, while the report has been widely circulated to the fine wine press and trade, in the hope of better informing the market about the tastes and profile of our Members. 

To read the full report, please see here<\/a>. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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